Wednesday, October 7, 2009


Second day in Florence we set off early, straight to the Duomo to climb to the top of the dome before the crowds arrived. Our plan worked well - no queue and we were off and climbing, and climbing, and climbing - round and round a circular stairwell that made one giddy just from turning around and around, besides the exertion and heat - but then suddenly we emerged into the insdie of the church in a narrow walkway around the perimeter of the lower part of the dome. The view down into the church and of the frescoes at eye level was spectacular. Then it was on again - even more narrow and steep, then like a ladder and finally we popped out on top of the dome on the outside. Here we had marvellous views out over Florence and the surrounding countryside for 360 - only one word "Superbe!"

After the long climb down and a coffee to recover, we went for a stroll and came across a market where we bought some gloves and belts. Then into the Medicic Chapel - famous for its marble inlay work and also the tombs of a few of the medici - for which Michelangelo made statues "Dawn and Dusk" and "Night and Day". They were beautiful.

Dinner was back over the Arno with the Verweys to the restaurant we didn't get into the night before. Again they had a line of people waiting, but with our booking we sailed through and enjoyed a good meal of meat and pasta - at a good price. Thanks Nicole and Karina!

Saturday, October 3, 2009

Florence


The hotel had booked a ticket for us for the Uffizzi gallery last night - so it was all pretty painless getting in - a few short queues to pick up the ticket and get an audioguide, but no queue at the entrance.

We both thoroughly enjoyed the gallery - the audioguide was great as it picked out a few paintings in each room to discuss, then we could take it all at our own speed. We spent most of the day there - with a break out on the terrace for a coffee. Fra Angelico, Boticelli, Michaelangelo, Rembrandt, Caravaggio - we enjoyed them all.

Some delicious soup for lunch, then a wnader and we found ourselves at Basilica San Croce - this is a magnificent old church - in the process of having its magnificent frescos restored. There was also an interesting crypt full of tombstones, a scuplture exhibition and an amzing museum of religious artefacts including an incredible old byzantine style cross and a statue by Donatello.

Back to the hotel for a short rest before heading out to dinner with the Verweys to a restaurant recommended by Nicole's friend Karina. Unfortunately it was full, so we ate a few doors up - a good meal of pasta (3 types) and meat and salad. After dinner we wandered over to the Petti Palace, then back over the Ponte Vecchio where we paused to listen to a busker singing in the warm evening air to a quiet crowd. Ahh, the dolce vita ......

Friday, October 2, 2009

Venice to Florence


On the road again - literally! We were all sad to leave Venice and felt we could have spent longer there, but the rest of Italy beckoned. A short walk to the station from the hotel and we boarded the train for Florence. After the absence of cars in Venice, it was a shock to arrive in the busy city of Florence and make our way through the cars and traffic to our hotel.

What a great hotel - thanks to Sarah Nikolsky for suggesting it. The Hotel Bretagna - right on the river Arno, only a short stroll to the ponte vecchia and all of Venice. It's a beautiful old building, and even the cheapest rooms (ours!) have a gracious feel - though the Verweys are feeling a but cramped as they drew the short straw (for once!!) and got the smaller room.

We set off for a stroll through town to familiarise ourselves with the place, and had a good pizza at nearby restaurant recommended by the staff here (a young Brazilian man) - followed by a marching band and stunning fireworks display right outside our hotel. What a welcome to Florence!

Venice


Exploring Venice!

We decided to purchase a vaporetto ticket for 36 hours unlimited rides - and jumped straight on to get around to San Marco basilica. Not too much of a queue and we were in. We paid to go up to the roof and upper galleries and it was well worth it to get the views out onto the square and to see the basilica from above - and be close to all the beautiful mosaics.

After that we went wandering for a coffee - in San Marco square the prices were ridiculous ($15 for a coffee), but we walked for ages trying to find any other coffee shops - my theory was that the maon square coffee shops run a mafia that doesn't let in any competetion. Lots of interesting shops and galleries to look at as we wandered.

Then to the Doge's palace - an astonishing array of private chambres, then glorious state rooms to rival Windsor castle then down to the prisons - a very intersting visit.

Onto the vaporetto for a ride up the grand canal back to our hotel for a rest before going out to an opera performance at night! It was basically 2 singers and a piano player performing songs from various operas in a beautiful old church, then another vaporetto ride through the canals in the dark - magic stuff!

Next day we set off (by vaporetto again) for the Accademia which houses Venice's art gallery. It was a beautiful collection of Italian paintings from the 13th to 17th centuries - a beautiful Bellini madonna and child was my favourite, and also a portrait of an old woman which was one of the first portraits of real people to be painted.

We were getting into the vapororetto business and enjoying the boat rides, so we decided to head out to the island of Murano where they do all the glass work. There was heaps of beautiful things including a lot of jewellery - so I decided to do some Christmas shopping - you'll just have to wait Lisa, Steph, Danielle, Marcia and mum for your Christmas presents!

Dinner out with the Verweys for our last night in Venice. Mary picked one out of her book which we found (an achievement in Venice), but was closed - but the one opposite was good and we enjoyed a nice meal of pasta/sardines/meat / vegetables and panna cotta.

Thursday, October 1, 2009

Barcelona to Venice


Today was a big travel day. Metro to the main station, then train to the airport, then plane to Venice!

Venice was a beautiful surprise. Much cleaner than I remember, and a visual delight at every turn.

We enjoyed wandering the streets and found ourselves at San Marco square at sunset/moon rise. A long walk back to our hotel, (well positioned on the grand canal opposite the station) but we felt quite safe all the way even in the dark, empty alley ways.

Barcelona


Grand final day! Michael listened to the game through his phone on his computer, interspersed with commentary from Nicole via skype! What a great victory for Geelong. Michael was very pleased, although it all felt rather unreal.

Exploring Barcelona!

We walked down to the port area and got the seaside feel of Barcelona. A coffee on the floating sea platform watching the yachts and pedestrians, then into the old city of Barcelona for more wandering. Later we headed out to the Sangreda Familia - Gaudi's masterpiece of a Cathedral which is still being built 100 years later, and still has another 20 years to go. It was absolutely amazing. We walked around, then through, then up one of the towers in an elevator - which was just breathtaking to see it all from up there. He really was a genius.

In the evening we found an old, old restaurant ( approx 250 years continuous service!) where we enjoyed some traditional spanish dishes such as seafood casserole and sausages and beans. It was an interesting rabbit warren of a place, decorated with old wall paintings.

Then we watched the replay of the grand final in an Aussie bar - just to make sure it really happened.

The next day we wanted to see more Gaudi work, so we went to the Bartlo House (on Nicole's recommendation). It was amazing too - all curves and incredible attention to detail in the woodwork and beautiful ceramics. How the house worked for ventilation and light was fascinating too. We ran into my Feldenkrais friend Maxine there, with her partner Graham. Unfortunately we forgot the camera that mroning - so no photos. We then wandered back into the main part of town - through a square where celebrations were going on and at one stage had nudists promting their cause at a stand behind us (in the nude of course), young girls doing the can can on stage and an animated Catalonian separatist handing out pamphlets in front of us!

We had a great lunch at a little bar where the locals were having spritz, so we had one too, and a toasted sandwich.

Later on we caught the fenicular up Mont Juc (beautiful views at sunset), then the cable car up to the castle - where there were more festivities going on. We wandered around with all the locals taking the evening air and enjoying the views out to see and over the town. Then down to the area near our hotel for a good dinner of paella.

Carcassone to Barcelona




Well this was our last trip in the car with trusty "Madam" (our satnav) navigating. She steered us safely onto the autoroute and after a few hours speed driving we were in Perpignan. A few hassles to find a petrol station, after a coffee in the very pleasant part of town, and we dropped off the car at the Europecar at the station.

An hour to go until the train so we got a kebab for lunch - heaps of kabab shops here, then jumped on the train for the border.

Already the terrain was getting drier and rockier, but as we approached the border with Spain it got more so. We had a few tantalising glimpses of the mediterranean as we sped past, then we changed trains at Port Bou on the Spanish side of the border.

Not only the climate had changed. We felt we were in Spain - everything was a bit dirtier, a bit more laid back, but also a bit more aggro. People were drinking beer and sangria in the station waiting for the train - and no one was too clear on where the train was going to leave from.

The train made many stops on its way to Barcelona, and it was full and hot. We finally got into barcelona about 7.00pm and found our way to the hotel on the metro without problems. The hotel Hogar was very conveniently located, but we got a dreadful room - small and musty, with only a small window into a covered central airwell - which was dank and dark. Not even a fan to move the air.

Feeling a bit down in the dumps and overwhelmed by the crowds and bustle of barcelona, we walked up and down the Ramblas, had a very ordinary meal of tapas and paella on the tourist strip (we should have known better)